For Koreans, if anyone mentions the words "ganjang gejang", the first thing they think of is Sinsa-dong's Ganjang Gejang Alley. Back in the 1980s, this food alley was originally famous for agwi jjim, but when the pro baseball atheletes that often frequented this alley declared that the ganjang gejang was especially delicious, rumor spread and soon the alley became more famous for its ganjang gejang.
So what is ganjang gejang?
"Ganjang gejang" translates to "crabs marinated in soy sauce", and that is exactly what ganjang gejang is. Ganjang gejang is a variety of jeotgal, salted fermented seafood in Korean cuisine. To make ganjang gejang, fresh blue crabs are marinated in a ganjang (soy sauce)-based marinade.
Historical records on gejang can be found in books written during the Joseon Dynasty (1392 - 1910). Records state that the consumption of gejang in Korea appeared at least as early as the 1600s.
Ganjang gejang was originally referred to as "gejang", but is now called "ganjang gejang" these days to differentiate it from yangnyeom gejang. The latter is relatively a new dish that emerged, and involves the use of gochugaru (red chili pepper flakes) instead of ganjang. "Yangnyeom" literally means "seasoning" or "seasoned" in Korean but refers to the spicy sauce made with gochugaru.
Left: Ganjang gejang / Right: Yangnyeom gejang
Ganjang gejang is one of the more complicated foods to prepare in Korean cuisine. The key to great ganjang gejang is preparing the marinade just right. The ingredients in the marinade include ganjang, salt, onions, garlic, ginger, cheongyang peppers, water, etc. However if the sauce is not made just right, it can be too salty for consumption, but if it's not strong enough the crabs will not ferment properly and will quickly go off. If preparing the marinade wasn't tricky enough, if the crabs aren't allowed to ferment properly, then they will give off a rather strong odor.
Ganjang gejang is a food that can been seen being made at home in Korean households, but most will pale in comparison to the delicious ganjang gejang that is served in gejang specialty restaurants.
The Ganjang Gejang Eating Experience
When you order some ganjang gejang, the first things that will come out are the banchan (side dishes). They may all be very delicious, but they pale in comparision to the main dish! But then the ganjang gejang comes out! The blue crabs, drenched in ganjang and bursting with meat will make you drool!
Various banchan (side dishes)
You can't worry about appearances when you're eating ganjang gejang. Ganjang gejang tastes the best when you're going at it with confidence! Roll your sleeves up and suck the meat and juices right out it! No need for utensils!
Ganjang gejang tastes best with your sleeves rolled up and without utensils!
For many people, the highlight of eating ganjang gejang is mixing rice in the crab shell! Just scoop a few spoonfuls of rice into the crab shell and add some ganjang sauce if you like, and then mix it up with the juices inside! It makes for a delicious treat! And you can take it a step further by wrapping that mixture of rice and juices with some gim (laver).
Add rice to the crab shell and mix with the juices inside for a tasty treat!
If you want to try more gejang dishes, then try yangnyeom gejang! Instead of being solely based on ganjang, the marinade for yangnyeom gejang is made with gochugaru, ganjang, garlic, sugar, etc. Even just looking at the dish you can see that it's very different from ganjang gejang; it's red! But don't let the color fool you, the marinade is just as sweet as it is spicy! And just like with ganjang gejang, the best way to enjoy it is without utensils and just using your hands!
Sweet n' spicy yangnyeom ganjang
Yangnyeom gejang is so delicious!
Finish off with a bowl of nurungji
What's nurungji? Nurungji is scorched rice cooked in water.
What's nurungji? Nurungji is scorched rice cooked in water.
How to Get There
Take subway line 3 to Sinsa Station and go out exit 4. Walk straight for about 20 meters and take a right. Walk for about 80 meters and you should see the beginning of Ganjang Gejang Alley.
General Info
A. Masan Halmae Ganjang Gejang (마산할매간장게장) 02-547-2774
B. Bangbaksa Agwi Jjim (방박사아구찜) 02-512-2580
C. Wonjo Masan Agwi Jjim (원조마산아구찜) 02-544-4304
D. Mokpohang (목포항) 02-545-1257
E. Seobaekja Pro Ganjang Gejang (서백자프로간장게장) 02-543-3529
F. Ttungi-ne Pro Ganjang Gejang (뚱이네프로간장게장) 02-549-9282
G. Pro Ganjang Gejang (프로간장게장) 02-543-4126
Prices
Gejang (ganjang gejang or yangnyeom gejang): Small 55,000 won / Medium 80,000 won
Nurungji: 5,000 won
Hours
24/7 (Open every day of the year)
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